Steingasse area of Salzburg is nestled between the Kapuzinerberg hill and the Salzach River, north of the old city. We stayed in this area, a stone’s throw away from Hotel Schwarzes Rossl. At 636 meters/2,086 feet, Kapuzinerberg is the highest mountain surrounding Salzburg. There is a road up the mountain but no cable car! If you have time and need a respite from the heat, walk up at least a far as the Capuchin Monastery/Capuchin Abbey for wonderful city views (although not the old town) from one of two lookouts: The Stadtaussicht (City Lookout) has views of the new city and small part of the old; and Bayerische Aussicht (Bavarian Lookout) – if the weather is good, can see up to Bavaria. Have more time? Trails lead through a shady beech forest to the top.
A steep, old stone stairway leads up the Kapuzinerberg hill alongside a road from Linzergasse along the Passion Walk, lined by six Baroque Stations of the Cross and built by different Salzburg artists between 1736 and 1744. Once past the stations, the walk continues through the Felix Gate (Felixtor) built in 1632 and part of the ancient wall which runs from the Felix Gate and surrounds the Capuchin Monastery.
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Kapuzin (Capuchin) Monastery on Kapuzinerberg Hill above Salzach River, Salzburg
bastion portion of historic Salzburg wall
– Capuchin Monastery or Abbey. The Capuchin monks first came to Salzburg in 1594 and incorporated their monastery or abbey, located about halfway up Kapuzinerberg Hill, into buildings once called Trompeterschlossli (Small Trumpeter’s Castle) which is clearly visible from the other side of the Salzach River (see photographs above). Built on a plateau in simple architecture in accordance with order rules, we entered the church only outside the walls enclosing the main cloister. A late Gothic oak door is said to be a relic from the old Salzburg Cathedral.
Other historic sites on Kapuzinerberg are:
– Franziski Schlossl located on the northern end of the wall, and originally designed as a battlement;
– Paschinger Schlossl, Kapuzinerberg 5 was the residence of the famous writer, Stefan Zweig born in Vienna in 1881. We didn’t visit the house but there is also a Zweig Memorial beside the Capuchin Monastery commemorating the great writer; and
– Another Mozart Monument is located at the forest edge above Capuchin Monastery. This bust was erected at the place where the Zauberflotenhauschen (Magic Flute House) was located; a hut in which Mozart supposedly composed The Magic Flute. This hut was moved to the Mozarteum otherwise known as a university in Salzburg, Austria which specializes in music and the dramatic arts. The monument says: Mozart – young great – late recognized – never reached.
Kapuzerberg area of Salzburg
We explored a few trails before walking down the mountain via at least 200 stairs to the Imbergstiege, past St. John’s Chapel, and only a block from where we began. Almost at the bottom, I noticed a historical inscription on a building to Joseph Mohr, 1792-1848. In case you don’t know who Joseph Mohr is and we certainly didn’t, he wrote the lyrics to one of the most famous carols ever written, Silent Night. Mohr was born in Salzburg on December 11, 1792 and spend his childhood and early youth here.
The Steingasse area and street was the main point of entry for daily consignments of salt arriving from Hallein Salt Mines in the South. This was also a significant north-south medieval trading route through the mountains and towards Italy. As a matter of fact, the name Salzburg means “Salt Castle” – derived from barges carrying salt on the Salzach River. Salt was considered to be “White Gold” and the main source of Prince Archbishops’ fortunes. This ancient area still has many impressive buildings dating from 1862 around the Imberstrasse.
TIP: The non-operating Hallein Salt Mine is the oldest mine in the world open to visitors and can be accessed from Salzburg by train or bus.
Salzburg bakery window
Salzburg metal sculpture: shower with running water
spires, domes and fortress in Salzburg, Austria
Two other important places to visit north of the Salzach River:
– Mirabell Gardens and Palace; and
– Mozart’s Family Residence where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart lived from 1773-1780. Exhibits inside relate to the life of the Mozart family and building history.
shop selling dirndls’, lederhosen and Loden jackets, Salzburg
shopping in Salzburg, Austria
The Bahnhof (train station) is also located on this side of the river.