Why is Hama Rikyu Garden unique? Because it was originally built as a feudal lord’s Tokyo residence and duck hunting grounds during the Edo Period (1603-1867). Since those days, Hama Rikyu became a strolling garden, and later served as an Imperial detached palace before opened to the public in its current form.
The Sumida River Cruise dock is located within Hama Rikyu’s grounds, so disembarking means that travelers also have to pay an entry fee (300 Yen/$3.00). The river boats then travel an additional five minutes to Hinode Pier, where a transfer can be made to boats bound for Odaiba. The Sumida River enters Tokyo Bay here.
Hama Rikyu Gardens
Hama Rikyu Gardens
TIP: Hama Rikyu is not served by boats in direction of Asakusa.
Hama Rikyu Gardens (“Hama Detached Palace Gardens”) is a parkland near the Shiodome District. Moated and with tidal duck ponds, Matsudaira Tsunashige reclaimed part of the tidal ponds in 1654 to build an urban family villa. The ponds were enlarged and continued to be used for duck hunting (with nets). His son, Ienobu, later became the Sixth Japanese Shogun. As a matter of fact, it is Ieonobu’s placenta that is buried at Nezu Shrine!
Shogun Ienobu renovated the gardens which continued under successive shoguns until Hama Rikyu Gardens reached their final form under the Eleventh Shogun, Ienari.
Hama Rikyu is now a sanctuary within Tokyo for a number of wild species of birds and fish. (I thought I saw cormorants.) Several duck hunting blinds have been reconstructed along with a rock wall. Remains of an old moat can still be seen while walking around the extensive gardens.
Hama Rikyu Gardens
A free English audio guide is available at Hama Rikyu which includes self-guided walking courses. The courses vary in length from 60-90 minutes and use pictures and video to explain the various historical spots, flowers and trees seen along the way. The guide is available at the Otemon and Nakanogomon Gate entrances.
By now, I could have cared less what we saw after a very long hot day in Tokyo and slowly slogged back to the Shiba Park Hotel, an approximately 15 minute walk. Hama Rikyu Garden is a 10-15 minute walk from JR Shimbashi Station or a 5-10 minute walk from Shiodome Station on the Oedo Subway Line and the Yurikamome elevated train.
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