Another day in Japan with travel to Kakunodate for an Autumn Festival. Marine Steve and I sent one of of our two suitcases back to Tokyo, and forwarded the other from Haguro to Tono. As we waited for the 9:00a public bus to begin today’s journey from Haguro to Kakunodate, a line of Yamabushi (pilgrims) walked through the parking lot. Blowing conch shells used to call spirits, they continued on to the main shrines and we boarded the bus.
A 40-minute bus to Tsuruoka. A 1:45 train, followed by another train to Kakunodate, a once samurai village with much to see there. However, our visit coincided with the last day of Kakunodate’s annual Autumn Festival. The Festival takes place from September 7-9 every year to celebrate a good harvest and 18 colorful floats are pulled through the streets by locals.
Kakunodate is filled with drumming, singing and drama performances and a plethora of food stalls are erected along streets. Major yum and disappointment that we had only two hours before moving along.
Autumn Festival float in Kakunodate
Samurai district in Kakunodate
former Samurai house in Kakunodate
Kakunodate is a former feudal town established in 1620 under the authority of Ashina Yoshikatsu, a local lord. At that time, the town was designed to reflect a division between samurai and merchants. Of the samurai houses that remain intact, six are open to the public and offer visitors a chance to see how middle class and wealthy samurai families might have lived. Once home to 80 families, the samurai district still has some of the best examples of samurai architecture in all of Japan.
Two are particularly noteworthy for their size and quality: the Aoyagi House and Ishiguro House.
- The area open to visitors in the Ishiguro House is much smaller than that of the Aoyagi House (below), largely because the family still resides here. On display is a small collection of samurai armor and clothing, as well as anatomical drawings and studies. The Ishiguro House also has a well preserved storeroom. I didn’t think it was very impressive but two items piqued my interest – a carving over an entrance that cast reflections on a wall and stunning old kimonos.
kimono in Ishiguro residence, Kakunodate
kimono in Ishiguro residence, Kakunodate
panel reflection in Ishiguro residence, Kakunodate
- I think the Aoyagi House would be more interesting. The complex is said to be impressive with multiple buildings containing museum collections, restaurants and gift shops. Displays provide interesting information in both English and Japanese on samurai traditions, lifestyle and Japan’s historical context in relation to Kakunodate.
Walk down the wide street and enter the most impressive building in the samurai district, Ando Jozo Miso Storehouse and Shop. The Meiji Period brick storehouse is beautifully preserved, while the shop sells miso and soya sauce, which has been produced for over 150 years.
garden of Kakunodate samurai house
another Autumn Festival float in Kakunodate
Autumn Festival in Kakunodate
Kakunodate really has too much to adequately see in only 2-2:30 hours and we quickly walked back to the train station to catch a train to Tazawako. (Don’t you love the name, Tazawako?)
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